Smile – You are in Sri Lanka!

BY HEIDI HENNRICH-HANSON

March 11, 2025

15 years after a 30 year long civil war, the pervasive smiles on Sri Lankans’ faces may reflect the deep cultural grounding and recognition of the country’s natural riches and beauty in peacetime. The Pearl of the Indian Ocean on the old spice trade route between Europe and China did not disappoint this group of 12 hikers on the first meticulously organized 1818 hiking and cultural trip. Attending the Navam Perahera, an annual religious festival and procession along the Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo, started the trip off with a bang as we listened to the drums and took in the sights of the colorful dancers and countless elephants adorned in royal garb.

Further inland, in the renowned Cultural Triangle, our outstanding tour guide facilitated a deep immersion into the country’s history from BC to present. Rising well before sunrise to beat the heat, we hiked up the iconic Sigiriya Rock Fortress at dawn (a vertical outcropping with a palace complex from the 5th century AD on top), and then rock-scrambled up the formation of Pidurangala to view Sigiriya from the best vantage point. We climbed up the monastic site of Mihintale (the birthplace of Buddhism in Sri Lanka) barefoot on hot granite, and toured Anuradhapura’s impressive ruins left from a thriving First Kingdom (500BC to 1,200 AD). We admired Polonnaruwa‘s medieval ruins from the short-lived Second Kingdom, and walked through the richly painted cave temples of Dambulla with decorations from the past 2,000 years.

The most strenuous of our hikes – with an experienced trekking guide – took us up to the highest peaks of the Knuckles Range. 10 hours there and back left even experienced hikers completely exhausted yet exhilarated having learned that Sri Lanka’s treks can be steeper, hotter and more humid than anticipated, and require pushing your way through dense vegetation and wearing leech socks for protection. A far less strenuous jeep safari got us up close to wild elephants and monkeys in the Hurulu Forest Reserve, and the skillful trip organization allowed those who preferred less strenuous hiking more exposure to the colorful world of tropical birds everywhere we went (our novice birders counted some 45 bird species) – Sri Lanka is a biodiversity hotspot!

While taking in the soundtracks of local music, the group hit the narrow, windy mountain roads into the higher elevations of the cooler Hill Country and the city of Kandy known for its rich traditions, long resistance to colonial powers, and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth. As we hiked two sections of the Pekoe Trail through large active and abandoned tea plantations (started by the British in the 1860s), we took in the brilliant scenes of hills glad in fresh green tea leaves. We also gained a new appreciation for the fortitude of the barefoot workers on extremely steep terrain and learned about the Tamil slaves who were brought in from India for the back-breaking work of clearing virgin forests and planting tea. Astounding natural beauty also awaited us while hiking inside Horton Plains National Park, an over 7,000 feet high plateau with grasslands, cloud forests, rare species of flora and fauna, escarpments, waterfalls, and the headwaters of most Sri Lankan rivers. 

We experienced more dramatic scenery and wild elephants on jeep and boat safaris in the more remote eastern area of Gal Oya National Park. Here, we also had the opportunity to meet with the last survivors of the indigenous Vedda tribe that is just giving up its century-old hunting lifestyle for subsistence farming.

As we descended to the southern coast, we walked to the 10th century rock temple of Buduruwagala, before proceeding to Galle Fort which offered more insights into the country’s long colonial history (the Portuguese and Dutch were here before the British, starting in the 16th century), as well as a glimpse at some of its beach tourism, surfing hotspots, and sea life.

Throughout the trip, welcoming local hotels and extraordinary glamping sites, as well as delicious varied local cuisine, lovingly prepared with all the fresh fruits, vegetables and spices the island offers, healthy street food, and even a foody cooking class added to our multi-sensory experience. 17 action packed days and 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites later, this group of hikers feels greatly enriched, eager for more, and optimistic about the country’s future. Look for the upcoming announcement of a repeat of this trip that is anticipated for February 2026!


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